So, we are here in J'm. Staying at the Three Arches YMCA hotel. Yes, you read that correctly. It is very reasonably priced and more than meets our needs -- although Sarah noted that there is no TV in the bathroom :-)!! The location is terrific. About 2-3 blocks from Ben Yehuda and from the Jaffa Gate to the Old City. [For those who may not be aware, the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall is definitely the place to be at night in J'm.] We are actually located directly opposite the King David Hotel. In fact while we were having dinner tonight (the YMCA has a very highly rated restaurant with a beautiful terrace) we saw four police cars (with lights flashing) pull up to the front door of the King David. Sarah noticed and said, "There must be some sort of problem." I then realized that it was actually two police cars followed by a limousine and then another two police cars. The limo stopped right in front of the main entrance to the hotel. I explained to Sarah that many notables stay at the King David and this was clearly someone who warranted a police escort!
Okay, enough about the digs. I will tell you about two of our experiences in the last several days. First the serious one. Today, Sarah and I visited the museum at Kibbutz Lohamei HaGetaot (Ghetto Fighters). This is a community that was founded by a number of survivors from the Warsaw and other ghettos. They decided that they wanted to build something to memorialize all of those who died in the struggle and rather than erecting a stone monument, they decided to establish something "living" which would endure and grow. The primary mover was a survivor from the Warsaw Ghetto. It was a very moving exhibit which included videotaped testimony from many of the members of the Kibbutz. Perhaps what was most impressive was their modesty. None of them seemed to see themselves as heroes. In fact, several commented that the only difference between them and those who supposedly "went like sheep to the slaughter" was being in the right place at the right time. Over and over these individuals stressed how impossible it was for them to believe that in the middle of the 20th century, one people would exterminate another. This was why people seemingly cooperated. They couldn't conceive of what the Nazis were actually doing. At the Kibbutz, there is also a newly opened exhibit memorializing the children who lost their lives in the Holocaust. It is called Yad LaYeled. Unfortunately -- for us -- this exhibit was entirely in Hebrew and therefore not very accessible to non-Hebrew speakers. The main museum's exhibits are all viewable in Hebrew, English or French.
Speaking of French, I have been struck by how, after Hebrew and English, the language one hears spoken most often here is French. In fact, I had a hysterical conversation in a mixture of English, Hebrew and French with a gentleman who needed directions at the Dan Carmel! It seems that an exceptionally large number of apartments are being purchased by wealthy French Jews who are concerned that with the rise in anti-Semitism in France (and elsewhere in Europe) they may actually need to emigrate to Israel. What is really strange is that there are essentially entire apartment complexes that are, for all intents and purposes, empty almost all the time because the owners only come for a few weeks here and there.
Okay, on to the fun experience. So Sarah and I went to this place called "Gan Garoo". It is a small zoo established by some Australian Jews in an attempt to enhance understanding between Israelis and Australians. Of course they have a Koala who was -- of course -- sleeping while we were there. But the real "draw" was the kangaroos. I have never been to a zoo where one could actually touch the kangaroos. I was always under the impression that they were very dangerous because they might kick. These were gentle as lambs. Several of them had joeys that they were carrying and it was fascinating. There were also some really young ones who were just adorable! They also had an enclosure with goats. Sarah got some food to give them and one of them practically knocked her down because he was so intent at getting his snout right up to the machine which dispensed the food! All in all, it was a really fun day and one which was most unexpected as part of our trip to Israel!
Tomorrow we begin our exploration of J'm. On Wed. we (my sister-in-law, Laurie, Sarah and myself) will join the Women of the Wall for Rosh Chodesh Elul. We are all really looking forward to this opportunity. I will certainly post after that!
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